| Top 10 Myths of Tree Care |
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Allentown, PA - Should you prune your trees in the Spring? How deep must
fertilizer be applied to reach the roots of your trees? Which species of trees should
be topped to keep them from falling on your house? Most homeowners treasure the
trees on their property but know little about how to care for them. Much of what you
may have heard about tree care is actually incorrect, based on myths and
misconceptions. Here are the top 10 myths of tree care.
MYTH #1: When a tree is planted it should be securely staked to ensure
the development of a stable root system and a strong trunk. Although it is
sometimes necessary to stake trees to keep them upright and allow establishment,
there are some adverse effects of staking. Compared to staked trees, unstaked
trees tend to develop a more extensive root system and better trunk taper. Allowing
a small amount of movement can help root and trunk development. Of course, the
worst effect of staking is the possibility of trunk damage from the staking wires or
ties. Staking materials usually should be removed after one year to avoid "girdling"
the tree.
MYTH #2: Newly planted trees should have their trunks wrapped with tree
wrap to prevent sun scald and insect entry. Studies using most common tree
wraps have shown that they do not prevent extreme fluctuations in temperature on
the bark. In some cases, the temperature extremes are worse. Also, tree wraps
have proven quite ineffective in preventing insect entry. In fact, some insects like to
burrow under it.
MYTH #3: Trees should be pruned back heavily when they are planted to
compensate for the loss of roots. Tree establishment is best with unpruned
trees. Although pruning the top can reduce the amount of water that evaporates
from the leaves, the tree needs a full crown to produce the much-needed food and
the plant hormones that induce root growth. The tree will develop a stronger, more
extensive root system if it has a fuller crown. Limit pruning at the time of planting to
structural training and the removal of damaged branches.
MYTH #4: When removing a branch from a tree, the final cut should be
flush with the stem to optimize healing. First of all, trees don't "heal" in the
sense that wounds on people heal. Our bodies regenerate tissues in much the
same form of the tissues that were removed (to a limited extent). Trees
compartmentalize wounds, generating woundwood over the wounded area. Flush
cutting removes the "branch collar," creating a larger wound than if the branch
were removed outside the collar. Also, it is likely that some of the parent branch
tissue will be removed. The spread of decay inside the tree is greater with flush
cuts.
MYTH #5: Pruning wounds greater than three inches in diameter should be
painted with a wound dressing. Research has shown that the common wound
dressings do not inhibit decay, do not prevent insect entry, and do not bring about
faster wound closure. In fact, many of the commonly used dressings slow wound
closure.
MYTH #6: Certain fast-growing, weak-wooded trees such as silver maple
and Siberian elm should be "topped" to make them less hazardous in the
landscape. While topping these trees may reduce the potential hazard at first,
they will likely be more dangerous in the future. Topping stimulates growth of twigs
below the cuts. Growth of many, vigorous shoots leads to branches with weak
attachments. Also decay spreads inside the stubs and branches that were topped.
Within 2-5 years after topping, the tree will have regained its height, but will be
more hazardous than before the topping. Besides, topping makes trees ugly.
Alternatives to topping include thinning, cabling, or removal and replacement with a
more suitable species.
MYTH #7: If certain species of trees are pruned early in the spring, they
will "bleed," stressing the tree and causing health problems. True, some
trees such as maples and birches will "bleed" or lose sap from pruning cuts made
early in the spring. This bleeding does not hurt the tree, and the loss of sap is
inconsequential. With a few exceptions, most routine pruning can be done anytime
of year. The worst time is just as the tree has leafed out in the spring. The best
time is when the tree is dormant. To maximize flowering for the following year, prune
just after bloom this year.
MYTH #8: The root system of a tree is a mirror image of the top. Many
people envision a large, branching taproot growing deep into the soil.
Actually, taproots are very uncommon in mature trees. If taproots do develop, they
usually will be forced into horizontal growth when they encounter hard subsoils
beneath the surface. The entire root systems of most trees can be found within
three feet of soil. The spread of the root system however, can be very extensive,
often extending 2-3 times the spread of the crown.
MYTH #9: Trees require "deep root fertilization" to reach their root system.
In most U.S. Soils, the vast majority of trees' fibrous, absorbing roots are in the top
eight inches of soil. Roots grow where conditions are best for root growth, where
water and oxygen are available. When we place fertilizer 12" - 18" deep in the soil,
we are putting it too deep.
MYTH #10: When a tree has lost a significant portion of its root system
such as in construction damage, the crown should be cut back to
compensate for root loss. While this is a common recommendation, research
has not supported it. Following root loss, unpruned trees seem to respond better
than pruned trees. Obviously, any removal of branches will reduce the capacity of
the tree to produce food in the leaves. Although the tree will probably lose some
branches as a result of the root damage (if the tree survives the trauma), it is best
to let the tree decide which ones. Thus, pruning should be limited to hazard
reduction at first. Later, after the tree has responded to the damage, further
pruning would be in order.
Get advice from an arborist- An arborist is a professional in the care of
trees. A qualified arborist can give you sound advice and can provide the services
your trees may need. Good Arborists will perform only accepted practices. When
choosing an arborist, look for ISA Certification, membership in professional
associations, and ask for proof of insurance. Be weary of individuals who go
door-to-door offering bargains for doing tree work. Don't be afraid to check
references.
fertilizer be applied to reach the roots of your trees? Which species of trees should
be topped to keep them from falling on your house? Most homeowners treasure the
trees on their property but know little about how to care for them. Much of what you
may have heard about tree care is actually incorrect, based on myths and
misconceptions. Here are the top 10 myths of tree care.
MYTH #1: When a tree is planted it should be securely staked to ensure
the development of a stable root system and a strong trunk. Although it is
sometimes necessary to stake trees to keep them upright and allow establishment,
there are some adverse effects of staking. Compared to staked trees, unstaked
trees tend to develop a more extensive root system and better trunk taper. Allowing
a small amount of movement can help root and trunk development. Of course, the
worst effect of staking is the possibility of trunk damage from the staking wires or
ties. Staking materials usually should be removed after one year to avoid "girdling"
the tree.
MYTH #2: Newly planted trees should have their trunks wrapped with tree
wrap to prevent sun scald and insect entry. Studies using most common tree
wraps have shown that they do not prevent extreme fluctuations in temperature on
the bark. In some cases, the temperature extremes are worse. Also, tree wraps
have proven quite ineffective in preventing insect entry. In fact, some insects like to
burrow under it.
MYTH #3: Trees should be pruned back heavily when they are planted to
compensate for the loss of roots. Tree establishment is best with unpruned
trees. Although pruning the top can reduce the amount of water that evaporates
from the leaves, the tree needs a full crown to produce the much-needed food and
the plant hormones that induce root growth. The tree will develop a stronger, more
extensive root system if it has a fuller crown. Limit pruning at the time of planting to
structural training and the removal of damaged branches.
MYTH #4: When removing a branch from a tree, the final cut should be
flush with the stem to optimize healing. First of all, trees don't "heal" in the
sense that wounds on people heal. Our bodies regenerate tissues in much the
same form of the tissues that were removed (to a limited extent). Trees
compartmentalize wounds, generating woundwood over the wounded area. Flush
cutting removes the "branch collar," creating a larger wound than if the branch
were removed outside the collar. Also, it is likely that some of the parent branch
tissue will be removed. The spread of decay inside the tree is greater with flush
cuts.
MYTH #5: Pruning wounds greater than three inches in diameter should be
painted with a wound dressing. Research has shown that the common wound
dressings do not inhibit decay, do not prevent insect entry, and do not bring about
faster wound closure. In fact, many of the commonly used dressings slow wound
closure.
MYTH #6: Certain fast-growing, weak-wooded trees such as silver maple
and Siberian elm should be "topped" to make them less hazardous in the
landscape. While topping these trees may reduce the potential hazard at first,
they will likely be more dangerous in the future. Topping stimulates growth of twigs
below the cuts. Growth of many, vigorous shoots leads to branches with weak
attachments. Also decay spreads inside the stubs and branches that were topped.
Within 2-5 years after topping, the tree will have regained its height, but will be
more hazardous than before the topping. Besides, topping makes trees ugly.
Alternatives to topping include thinning, cabling, or removal and replacement with a
more suitable species.
MYTH #7: If certain species of trees are pruned early in the spring, they
will "bleed," stressing the tree and causing health problems. True, some
trees such as maples and birches will "bleed" or lose sap from pruning cuts made
early in the spring. This bleeding does not hurt the tree, and the loss of sap is
inconsequential. With a few exceptions, most routine pruning can be done anytime
of year. The worst time is just as the tree has leafed out in the spring. The best
time is when the tree is dormant. To maximize flowering for the following year, prune
just after bloom this year.
MYTH #8: The root system of a tree is a mirror image of the top. Many
people envision a large, branching taproot growing deep into the soil.
Actually, taproots are very uncommon in mature trees. If taproots do develop, they
usually will be forced into horizontal growth when they encounter hard subsoils
beneath the surface. The entire root systems of most trees can be found within
three feet of soil. The spread of the root system however, can be very extensive,
often extending 2-3 times the spread of the crown.
MYTH #9: Trees require "deep root fertilization" to reach their root system.
In most U.S. Soils, the vast majority of trees' fibrous, absorbing roots are in the top
eight inches of soil. Roots grow where conditions are best for root growth, where
water and oxygen are available. When we place fertilizer 12" - 18" deep in the soil,
we are putting it too deep.
MYTH #10: When a tree has lost a significant portion of its root system
such as in construction damage, the crown should be cut back to
compensate for root loss. While this is a common recommendation, research
has not supported it. Following root loss, unpruned trees seem to respond better
than pruned trees. Obviously, any removal of branches will reduce the capacity of
the tree to produce food in the leaves. Although the tree will probably lose some
branches as a result of the root damage (if the tree survives the trauma), it is best
to let the tree decide which ones. Thus, pruning should be limited to hazard
reduction at first. Later, after the tree has responded to the damage, further
pruning would be in order.
Get advice from an arborist- An arborist is a professional in the care of
trees. A qualified arborist can give you sound advice and can provide the services
your trees may need. Good Arborists will perform only accepted practices. When
choosing an arborist, look for ISA Certification, membership in professional
associations, and ask for proof of insurance. Be weary of individuals who go
door-to-door offering bargains for doing tree work. Don't be afraid to check
references.