Premium seasoned mixed local hardwoods
Firewood: Dimensions: Stacked:
Full Cord $195.00 4' high, 4' thick and 8' long. Stacked within 20' +$45.00
Half Cord $100.00 4' high, 4' thick and 4' long. Stacked within 20' +$25.00
Face Cord $ 75.00 4' high, 16"thick and 8' long. Stacked within 20' +$20.00
Delivery:
0-5 miles $20.00
5-10 miles $25.00
10-15 miles $30.00
15 + miles call
Firewood: Dimensions: Stacked:
Full Cord $195.00 4' high, 4' thick and 8' long. Stacked within 20' +$45.00
Half Cord $100.00 4' high, 4' thick and 4' long. Stacked within 20' +$25.00
Face Cord $ 75.00 4' high, 16"thick and 8' long. Stacked within 20' +$20.00
Delivery:
0-5 miles $20.00
5-10 miles $25.00
10-15 miles $30.00
15 + miles call
| US TREE SERVICE FIREWOOD |
Winter 2010 Price List
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Type
Osage Orange (Hedge)
Hickory, Shagbark
Eastern Hornbeam
Ironwood
Beech, Blue
Birch, Black
Locust, Black
Hickory, Bitternut
Locust, Honey
Apple
Mulberry
Oak, White
Beech, High
Maple, Sugar
Oak, Red
Ash, White
Birch, Yellow
Juniper, Rocky Mtn
Elm, Red
Coffeetree, Kentucky
Hackberry
Tamarack
Birch, Gray
Birch, Paper
Birch, White
Walnut, Black
Cherry
Ash, Green
Cherry, Black
Elm, American
Elm, White
Sycamore
Ash, Black
Maple, Red
Fir, Douglas
Boxelder
Alder, Red
Pine, Jack
Pine, Norway
Pine, Pitch
Catalpa
Hemlock
Spruce, Black
Pine, Ponderosa
Aspen
Butternut
Spruce
Willow
Fir, Balsam
Pine, White
Fir, Concolor (White)
Basswood
Buckeye, Ohio
Cottonwood
Cedar, White
Osage Orange (Hedge)
Hickory, Shagbark
Eastern Hornbeam
Ironwood
Beech, Blue
Birch, Black
Locust, Black
Hickory, Bitternut
Locust, Honey
Apple
Mulberry
Oak, White
Beech, High
Maple, Sugar
Oak, Red
Ash, White
Birch, Yellow
Juniper, Rocky Mtn
Elm, Red
Coffeetree, Kentucky
Hackberry
Tamarack
Birch, Gray
Birch, Paper
Birch, White
Walnut, Black
Cherry
Ash, Green
Cherry, Black
Elm, American
Elm, White
Sycamore
Ash, Black
Maple, Red
Fir, Douglas
Boxelder
Alder, Red
Pine, Jack
Pine, Norway
Pine, Pitch
Catalpa
Hemlock
Spruce, Black
Pine, Ponderosa
Aspen
Butternut
Spruce
Willow
Fir, Balsam
Pine, White
Fir, Concolor (White)
Basswood
Buckeye, Ohio
Cottonwood
Cedar, White
Pounds
/Cord
4,728
4,327
4,267
4,016
3,890
3,890
3,890
3,832
3,832
4,100
3,712
4,012
3,757
3,757
3,757
3,689
3,689
3,150
3,112
3.112
3,247
3,247
3,179
3,179
3,179
3,192
3,120
2,880
2,880
3,052
3,052
2,808
2,992
2,924
2,900
2,797
2,710
2,669
2,669
2,669
2,360
2,482
2,482
2,380
2,290
2,100
2,100
2,100
2,236
2,236
2,104
2,108
1,984
2,108
1,913
/Cord
4,728
4,327
4,267
4,016
3,890
3,890
3,890
3,832
3,832
4,100
3,712
4,012
3,757
3,757
3,757
3,689
3,689
3,150
3,112
3.112
3,247
3,247
3,179
3,179
3,179
3,192
3,120
2,880
2,880
3,052
3,052
2,808
2,992
2,924
2,900
2,797
2,710
2,669
2,669
2,669
2,360
2,482
2,482
2,380
2,290
2,100
2,100
2,100
2,236
2,236
2,104
2,108
1,984
2,108
1,913
MBTU's
/Cord
32.9
27.7
27.3
27.1
26.8
26.8
26.8
26.7
26.7
26.5
25.8
25.7
24
24
24
23.6
23.6
21.8
21.6
21.6
20.8
20.8
20.3
20.3
20.3
20.2
20
19.9
19.9
19.5
19.5
19.5
19.1
18.7
18.1
17.9
17.2
17.1
17.1
17.1
16.4
15.9
15.9
15.2
14.7
14.5
14.5
14.5
14.3
14.3
14.1
13.8
13.8
13.5
12.2
/Cord
32.9
27.7
27.3
27.1
26.8
26.8
26.8
26.7
26.7
26.5
25.8
25.7
24
24
24
23.6
23.6
21.8
21.6
21.6
20.8
20.8
20.3
20.3
20.3
20.2
20
19.9
19.9
19.5
19.5
19.5
19.1
18.7
18.1
17.9
17.2
17.1
17.1
17.1
16.4
15.9
15.9
15.2
14.7
14.5
14.5
14.5
14.3
14.3
14.1
13.8
13.8
13.5
12.2
Firewood BTU Ratings Guide and info
Regarding Seasoning of Wood
Freshly cut wood has a very high moisture content. As
much as 60% (or more) of the weight of a tree is water.
At least some of this water must be removed before
trying to use it as a fuel wood. Several bad results can
occur from burning wood that is not fully dried to below
25% moisture content. (Such wood is referred to as
"green" wood). As that discussion mentions, the
effective available heat is MUCH less, not just because
there is less wood fibers in each pound of wood put in
the wood burner, but that a good percentage of that
heat must be used to evaporate all that water before
those wood fibers can burn. Another VERY important
consequence of burning green wood is that the
presence of all that moisture tends to keep "putting
out" the fire, and therefore making it burn very poorly,
which tends to produce a lot of creosote and pollution.
Don't Do It!
Generally, the way this drying is accomplished is by
"seasoning" it. Firewood is cut to length and then
seasoned (dried) in a stack, with air being able to get
to it, for at least 9 months before burning. The natural
60%-70% moisture content must be reduced to about
20% to burn well. The wood cells don't lose much
moisture through the bark; the moisture is most
effectively removed through the cut cells at the ends of
each piece.
That's why logs which have lain in the woods for years
may still have a lot of moisture and may not burn well
(unless cut and dried.) We have heard of people
cutting up these downed trees and immediately putting
them in a wood burner! And the wood burns poorly!
Now you know why!
Freshly cut wood has a very high moisture content. As
much as 60% (or more) of the weight of a tree is water.
At least some of this water must be removed before
trying to use it as a fuel wood. Several bad results can
occur from burning wood that is not fully dried to below
25% moisture content. (Such wood is referred to as
"green" wood). As that discussion mentions, the
effective available heat is MUCH less, not just because
there is less wood fibers in each pound of wood put in
the wood burner, but that a good percentage of that
heat must be used to evaporate all that water before
those wood fibers can burn. Another VERY important
consequence of burning green wood is that the
presence of all that moisture tends to keep "putting
out" the fire, and therefore making it burn very poorly,
which tends to produce a lot of creosote and pollution.
Don't Do It!
Generally, the way this drying is accomplished is by
"seasoning" it. Firewood is cut to length and then
seasoned (dried) in a stack, with air being able to get
to it, for at least 9 months before burning. The natural
60%-70% moisture content must be reduced to about
20% to burn well. The wood cells don't lose much
moisture through the bark; the moisture is most
effectively removed through the cut cells at the ends of
each piece.
That's why logs which have lain in the woods for years
may still have a lot of moisture and may not burn well
(unless cut and dried.) We have heard of people
cutting up these downed trees and immediately putting
them in a wood burner! And the wood burns poorly!
Now you know why!
You will get the best results burning the highest density (heaviest) hardwood with the highest BTU (available
heat) content. Here is a chart organizing various species by BTU content ( 1 MBTU = one million Btu),
heat) content. Here is a chart organizing various species by BTU content ( 1 MBTU = one million Btu),
Miscellaneous Wood Subjects
A number of specialty subjects might be useful to wood burners.
- Should pieces of wood be split from the top down or the bottom up? Since most people
these days either buy their wood already split or they use hydraulic log-splitters, this is a
somewhat irrelevant question these days. Even though old timer wood burners will
adamandtly tell you one or the other, careful experimental tests have shown that there is
no advantage in time or effort in splitting from either direction. It doesn't matter!
- Wood pieces should be split along "check lines", cracks that have already formed in the
piece during drying. This can significantly reduce the time and effort necessary to split
pieces of wood.
- There are people who believe that wood is split easiest if it is frozen. The idea is that the
pieces are more brittle and will sort of shatter. Surprisingly enough, experimental tests
showed very little advantage of splitting general wood. Even more surprising, if most of the
wood to be split is full of knots, there is actually substantial advantage of doing that
splitting them thawed and not frozen!
- There are people who insist that wood should be dried (seasoned) for at least one or two
years. Experimental evidence has established that is nearly always unnecessary, as long
as the pieces of wood are cut to length and stacked. Natural airflows through the stack,
and particularly through the cut cells of the pieces of wood themselves, dries them sooner
than that. Experimental evidence has established that one-foot long cut pieces generally
dry to acceptable levels in just two or three months. Two-foot long cut pieces take about six
or seven months for similar acceptability. Four-foot long cut pieces DO require at least a
year.
- Associated with this, covering the woodpile with a tarp slightly improves this, but probably
not enough to make the expense of a tarp worthwhile, except in a climate where rain and
very high humidity is common. Similarly, split pieces of wood tend to dry slightly faster than
full diameter logs, but again by minimal amounts.
- There appears to be no value in drying firewood more than about nine months.
- If wood is stacked in four-foot or longer lengths, the drying process is greatly slowed. In
other words, if wood is cut to four-foot length and stacked, for nine months, and then cut to
shorter burning length just before use, it will probably not burn well because it is still to wet
(green).
Weight and Heat content figures in
this chart are based on seasoned
wood at 20% moisture content
this chart are based on seasoned
wood at 20% moisture content
One cord of firewood:
High Heat
= 21,000,000 - 24,000,000 BTU
= 200-250 gallons of fuel oil
= 250-300 cubic feet of natural gas
Medium Heat
= 17,000,000 - 20,000,000 BTU
= 150-200 gallons of fuel oil
= 200-250 cubic feet of natural gas
Low Heat
= 12,000,000-17,000,000 BTU
= 100-150 gallons of fuel oil
= 200-250 cubic feet of natural gas
High Heat
= 21,000,000 - 24,000,000 BTU
= 200-250 gallons of fuel oil
= 250-300 cubic feet of natural gas
Medium Heat
= 17,000,000 - 20,000,000 BTU
= 150-200 gallons of fuel oil
= 200-250 cubic feet of natural gas
Low Heat
= 12,000,000-17,000,000 BTU
= 100-150 gallons of fuel oil
= 200-250 cubic feet of natural gas
| Call Today to place your order 610-435-TREE |
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| All our firewood is guaranteed local urban timber. |
| The cost of firewood is usually more stable than the cost of fuel oils or gas and should prove to be a huge savings on your heating bill. |